Viva Sao Joâo

Celebration of Sao Joâo festival

 

-Bernard Fernandes

 

25^th June 2014

Ami sogle zanvoim vortoutanv, chodda tempan bhetleanv

(We are all sons-in-law, meeting after a long time)
Sao Joao-chem fest mhunon ami mavoddea aileanv

(Being the feast of St. John, we have come to our in-laws’ house)
Mateak him kopelam ghalun uddok navonk bhair sorleanv

(With these crowns on our head, we have set out to have bath)
Aichea dissak voddle ami nokom khuim pauleanv.

(Today, we the grown-ups do not know where we have reached)

Chorus
Sao Joao, Sao Joao gunvta mure vatt amkam dissona

(St. John,St. John, spinning we cannot see the way)
Aicho dis urbecho konn konnak hansona

(Today is a day of fervour, no one laughs at anyone)
Choll-re pie-re tum illo ghe-re faleam kaim mevona

(Come on drink, take a little, we won’t get it tomorrow)
Oslim festam vorsak kiteak don pauti enam.

(Why don’t such feasts come twice a year!)

This is (a part of) the Konkani song sung by the Goan legend C Alvares, and it sums up the spirit of the Sao Joao festival in Goa on 24^th June every year. And if you are fortunate enough to tour Goa at this time of the year, and on this day, you would have picked up the lyrics and the tune to a tee! I happened to be that lucky one yesterday.  Some noteworthy and beautiful traditions are observed at this feast, and I wish to recount a few ...

On the occasion of the feast yesterday, a well in the interior of Taleigâo (Posrem bhatt), sported a vibrant and welcoming look with festoons, speakers and colourful decorations.  With kopels (headgear made of fresh and fragrant flowers, fruits and leaves) on their head, the people had gathered to revel in festivities, singing and dancing. They were out to have fun.  A few took a plunge in the cool, sweet waters of the well with the chants of ‘Viva Sao Joâo’ reverberating through the air. Their friends egged them on.  Still others congregated there just to be a part of the celebration. Volunteers went around distributing fruits, sweets (and wine!) to all present.  Every visitor was made to feel welcome, and even asked to be a part of the joyous celebration.

Now, the reason for this celebration!

24^th of June, in the Church calendar, is the feast of St. John the Baptist. The visitation narrative in the Bible states that when the Virgin Mary went to visit her cousin Elizabeth, who in her old age, was with a child, the baby (John) in her womb leapt for joy! The custom of people jumping into village wells is a symbolic representation of baby’s reaction of ecstasy and bounding in joy.

This day is a special day for newly married couples, even more, for a new born in the family. Tradition has it that mothers send off their daughters to their new homes with the traditional offering of ‘dali’ consisting of all seasonal fruits like mangoes, jackfruit, pineapple etc. Newly married couples (as also in the case of a new born in the family) usually offer a bottle of wine or feni.

The manner and intensity of the celebration of this feast differ from village to village. The intensity and vibrancy of the festival celebration is much more in North Goa.  Caranzalem, Dona Paula, and the areas surrounding them reverberate with chants of Viva Sao Joâo, with plunges in the well. The neighhouring Miramar-Campal area celebrate with the same spirit and intensity too, albeit a tad differently.  Here, a small pool/tank filled with water serves as an ideal ‘well’ for the young and the old alike to take a ‘Sao Joâo’ plunge! There is the traditional distribution of the fruits and sweets too to the participants and bystanders.

The charming scenic village of Siolim in North Goa attracts the biggest crowds at this animated feast. Here there is a lively display of dance shows and beat groups (with local and well known tiatrists belting traditional and contemporary hits). This is interspersed with a colourful boat parade know as ‘Sangodd’. The floats give us a peek into the rich traditional history and culture of Goa, while also addressing the relevant issues of the day – this time, an attractive float ‘Keep Goa clean, Live Happy’ was a case in point.  Thousands of people line up on the roads, and on the banks of the river to witness this grand spectacle. The parish team and local MLAs along with a few dignitaries (the list included Lara Dutta this time around) provide the grandiose element to the already merry festival.

Sao Joâo is surely here to stay!