Viva Sao Joâo

Celebration of Sao Joâo festival

 

-Bernard Fernandes

 

25^th June 2014

Ami sogle zanvoim vortoutanv, chodda tempan bhetleanv

(We are all sons-in-law, meeting after a long time)
Sao Joao-chem fest mhunon ami mavoddea aileanv

(Being the feast of St. John, we have come to our in-laws’ house)
Mateak him kopelam ghalun uddok navonk bhair sorleanv

(With these crowns on our head, we have set out to have bath)
Aichea dissak voddle ami nokom khuim pauleanv.

(Today, we the grown-ups do not know where we have reached)

Chorus
Sao Joao, Sao Joao gunvta mure vatt amkam dissona

(St. John,St. John, spinning we cannot see the way)
Aicho dis urbecho konn konnak hansona

(Today is a day of fervour, no one laughs at anyone)
Choll-re pie-re tum illo ghe-re faleam kaim mevona

(Come on drink, take a little, we won’t get it tomorrow)
Oslim festam vorsak kiteak don pauti enam.

(Why don’t such feasts come twice a year!)

This is (a part of) the Konkani song sung by the Goan legend C Alvares, and it sums up the spirit of the Sao Joao festival in Goa on 24^th June every year. And if you are fortunate enough to tour Goa at this time of the year, and on this day, you would have picked up the lyrics and the tune to a tee! I happened to be that lucky one yesterday.  Some noteworthy and beautiful traditions are observed at this feast, and I wish to recount a few ...

On the occasion of the feast yesterday, a well in the interior of Taleigâo (Posrem bhatt), sported a vibrant and welcoming look with festoons, speakers and colourful decorations.  With kopels (headgear made of fresh and fragrant flowers, fruits and leaves) on their head, the people had gathered to revel in festivities, singing and dancing. They were out to have fun.  A few took a plunge in the cool, sweet waters of the well with the chants of ‘Viva Sao Joâo’ reverberating through the air. Their friends egged them on.  Still others congregated there just to be a part of the celebration. Volunteers went around distributing fruits, sweets (and wine!) to all present.  Every visitor was made to feel welcome, and even asked to be a part of the joyous celebration.

Now, the reason for this celebration!

24^th of June, in the Church calendar, is the feast of St. John the Baptist. The visitation narrative in the Bible states that when the Virgin Mary went to visit her cousin Elizabeth, who in her old age, was with a child, the baby (John) in her womb leapt for joy! The custom of people jumping into village wells is a symbolic representation of baby’s reaction of ecstasy and bounding in joy.

This day is a special day for newly married couples, even more, for a new born in the family. Tradition has it that mothers send off their daughters to their new homes with the traditional offering of ‘dali’ consisting of all seasonal fruits like mangoes, jackfruit, pineapple etc. Newly married couples (as also in the case of a new born in the family) usually offer a bottle of wine or feni.

The manner and intensity of the celebration of this feast differ from village to village. The intensity and vibrancy of the festival celebration is much more in North Goa.  Caranzalem, Dona Paula, and the areas surrounding them reverberate with chants of Viva Sao Joâo, with plunges in the well. The neighhouring Miramar-Campal area celebrate with the same spirit and intensity too, albeit a tad differently.  Here, a small pool/tank filled with water serves as an ideal ‘well’ for the young and the old alike to take a ‘Sao Joâo’ plunge! There is the traditional distribution of the fruits and sweets too to the participants and bystanders.

The charming scenic village of Siolim in North Goa attracts the biggest crowds at this animated feast. Here there is a lively display of dance shows and beat groups (with local and well known tiatrists belting traditional and contemporary hits). This is interspersed with a colourful boat parade know as ‘Sangodd’. The floats give us a peek into the rich traditional history and culture of Goa, while also addressing the relevant issues of the day – this time, an attractive float ‘Keep Goa clean, Live Happy’ was a case in point.  Thousands of people line up on the roads, and on the banks of the river to witness this grand spectacle. The parish team and local MLAs along with a few dignitaries (the list included Lara Dutta this time around) provide the grandiose element to the already merry festival.

Sao Joâo is surely here to stay!

Goa...Goan...Gone!

Sometimes it‘s good to treasure our treasures!

-Bernard Fernandes

16^th June 2014

The readings at Mass today present an important reminder to us to value inheritance. The first reading from 1Kings recounts the story of Naboth, whose vineyard is next to the palace of Ahab, king of Samaria. Ahab wants to plant a vegetable garden where the vineyard of Naboth is located. When Ahab asks Naboth to buy the land, Naboth refuses, saying he has heard the Lord tell him to keep his ancestral heritage. Ahab becomes despondent about this and complains to his wife, Jezebul (who is from another land, and does not ascribe to the accepted religion or practices). In support of her husband’s desire for the land, Jezebul engineers a plot that gets Naboth killed and frees the land for Ahab to acquire. 

This vacation I have been at home in Goa longer than usual, and am getting to experience at close hand the many happenings (and controversies) surrounding my motherland.  Newspapers are screaming with headlines moaning the exodus of Goans to Europe, the sale of property, the flattening of hills, and the concretization of our fields. Today’s local daily newspaper (Herald) has a commendable people’s edit, ‘Goa without Goans’.  It addresses these issues, and points pertinently, ‘ 20 years hence, there will be no Goan on the road, no Goan on the beach, no Goan nest of singing birds, and no Goan music bands growing on Goan trees.’

Add to this, the callous attitude of builders and developers, and a few short sighted ambitious and environment endangering development plans of the Goa government, have brought the environment to the brink of destruction. This has galvanized many honest crusaders into action in a fight for justice. One of them, Fr. Victor Ferrao from the Rachol seminary in Goa decries the destructive impact that a proposed bridge across river Zuari linking Siroda and Rachol would have on the environment and heritage. In his article, ‘The bridge that threatens to bury the history and heritage of Raitur’,(Herald, 13 June 2014) Fr. Victor speaks about the damaging impact of this bridge on the historical village of Rachol that houses many a historical and heritage monument and structure.

The happenings today in Goa and many other parts of our country reflect the plight of Naboth before the imposing king Ahab. King Ahab lures Naboth with ‘a better vineyard in exchange’, or monetary benefits - ‘will give you its value in money’.  Naboth is unmoved.  ‘The LORD forbid that I should give you my ancestral heritage’ says he. Naboth was strong-willed and courageous. In the end, he was stoned to death for his decision. Where does this leave us? In a world moving at a frantic pace, the lasting values of respect, service, concern and love seem to lag behind, only to be replaced by wealth, possession, selfishness and indifference under the garb of development and growth. True, some in Goa (I have mentioned Goa; however this can take place – and is happening – anywhere and to anyone!) are genuinely lost or searching for better prospects and greener pastures; others overly ambitious and proud.  A sizeable number (luckily) though are still with their feet on the ground strong in their beliefs and conviction. These give us hope and assurance. They remind us every moment that we cannot – and should not - be led to a land of ruin and extinction, devoid of precious heritage.

God does want us to respect our land and our heritage, and be proud inheritors of history, culture, property and LIFE! At times, it’s good to treasure our treasures!

For the love of Football ... and Brazil

For the love of Football...and Brazil

-Bernard Fernandes

13^th June 2014

I love football, and the two knee surgeries have not lessened my passion for this beautiful game. As youngsters, we in the neighbourhood lived football. We played our own brand of football in the fields, on the seashores, and on the school grounds ... we never tired of it. There was no TV, yet there were thrills aplenty on and off the pitch. I got to witness live games at Campal stadium, and followed closely the progress of my favourite teams and footballers on the radio and the newspapers. My favourite football club at that time was Dempo S C, Goa. I liked their style of play – short ground passes with minimum aerial game and an abundance of deft play. More so, the Dempo team practiced on Don Bosco Panjim – the school that I was studying - grounds every morning, and I recollect stealing a few moments regularly before the school commenced just to watch them exercise and hone their skills at practice. Don Bosco Panjim adopted a similar style of play under the watchful eyes of the shrewd and committed school coach, late Mr. Paes (he happened to be also my Maths teacher in Std. VII), and its attractive style of play won the school not only a number of trophies but also many diehard fans. 

This then explains my love for, nay ‘obsession’ with, Brazil – the country that dishes out samba football as they say.  At every football World Cup I rooted for Brazil – and I was seldom disappointed. The only time I felt let down was the 1998 final in which Ronaldo mysteriously failed to impress, Zinedine Zidane toyed with the opponents and Brazil lived through a nightmare. France walked away with the title. Brazilians at their peak have given their opponents sleepless nights and their fans a feast for the eyes. They mesmerized opponents and viewers alike.  Some of the world cup moments featuring Brazil are etched in my memory: the penalty kicks of the graceful Socrates, the post goal ‘rock the baby’ celebration of Bebeto, the majestic skills of Zico, the dribbles of Ronaldinho, the prolific strikes of Romario, and the opportunistic play of Ronaldo... not forgetting the raw pace generated by the athletic Roberto Carlos by his sudden speed bursts down the wings.  

A live World cup football game featuring Brazil was never missed – and most of the times, it meant staying up late night or early morning to view your favourite stars play. The atmosphere was electric at such moments. A shout here, a sigh there in the company of enthusiastic boarders in the AV room of DB Lonavla, and in the TV rooms of KJC Bangalore and DBYC Pune with my friends and companions. While in the US (the only time I got to watch live action during the day) I had a couple of football crazy pastors –and this is rare in the US given their passion for rugby, baseball and basketball – for company. They provided an ideal ambience for a relaxed viewing of the World Cup games. I must confess that all along, besides Brazil, I did get to enjoy the brilliance of individual play makers– Zinedine Zidane, Diego Maradona, Paulo Rossi, Lionel Messi, the famed Dutch trio of Marco van Basten, Frank Rijkaard and Ruud Gullit, Roger Milla of Cameroon... to name a few. 

The first game featuring Brazil has just ended. Though they won, their brilliance has been patchy in parts.  I’m not sure if they will go on to win the World Cup this time. There are quite some contenders for the title this year: Spain, Germany, Portugal.  And many stars to watch:  Ronaldo, Messi,  Iniesta, Ozil, Rooney. May the best win!  Yet, am hoping for an encore from Brazil, if not the title, at least a display of sublime attractive football skills that connoisseurs would be proud of, and make football fans scream for more.  Over to FIFA World Cup 2014!

'Purument': a reflection

Reflections on ‘Purument’

-Bernard Fernandes

12^th June 2014

An article yesterday on the esteemed Goan daily, ‘Herald’ entitled “Purumentachem Fest: Vendors left high and dry” piqued my curiosity. Well, this word ‘Purument’ has been on my mind for the past few days, and when the article did show up on the newspaper, I wished to explore the hidden wealth on this subject.

It all started with the feast of the Holy Spirit in Margao on Sunday, 9^th June 2014. I was invited to a friend’s place for the festive lunch, and on my way, was enamored by the impressive sight of the fair on the Bus stand – Margao – Fatorda stretch. While at table, the discussion shifted to the ‘purumentachi fer’, and I found myself following it very closely. Being away from Goa for a long period, I was not very familiar with the terms ‘purument’and ‘purumentachi fer’, although I had visited these places and the fairs umpteen times as a young boy. 

Back home, my inquisitive nature got the better of me and I inquired with my family the history of this ‘purumentachi fer’. The word ‘purument’ is a Portuguese word meaning provisions. On the occasion of the major feasts in prominent places of Goa (I know of at least two, Santacruz and Margao), the fair that is usually associated with any other feasts and place, over here is termed ‘purumentachi fer’ (fair of provisions), and the feast itself ‘Purumentachem fest’.  In the calendar year, these feasts are closer to the beginning of the monsoon season, and the fairs provide a welcome opportunity for the people to prepare themselves for monsoon. At the beginning of the monsoon season in Goa, there is a ban on fishing trawlers and hence there is a paucity of fish for the fish curry-rice loving Goans.  They settle for the next best – stock up enough provisions for the monsoons! However this practise is dying slowly – that was the thrust of the Herald article - since unlike in the past, fish is available in the market throughout the year. The frozen fish is brought in boxes from the other states to Goa to meet the demand. 

The ‘purumentachi fer’ provides all provisions that will stand the test of the entire monsoon period. It also saves one the trouble of frequent visits to the market place, as also the cost and luxury of refrigeration. The provisions include the prized dry shark and sting ray to mackerals and prawns.  Add dried red chillies, onions, cocum, pickled vegetables, pulses et al...and you have a wonderful Goan cuisine delight stored for the monsoon.

So much for ‘purument’!  Some of these age old practices and customs add another dimension to life. The modern day term for purument may be ‘action-plan’.  An action plan for proper time-management, an action plan for effective execution of responsibilities, and above all an action plan for our spiritual journey!  All these need thought and silent preparation. We need to stock ourselves with beneficial healthy and energizing practices, good reading, passionate hobbies and simple praying habits.  These will stand the test of time and help us reap rich rewards.

The great poet Rabindranath Tagore wrote this poem

“Spring has passed. Summer has gone. Winter is here….

…and the song I meant to sing remains unsung. 

For I have spent my days stringing and unstringing my instrument.”

Our life is short. Let’s not busy ourselves (and our days) stringing and unstringing our instruments for we may never get to sing our song!